Real Food Encyclopedia | Grapes
From inspiring myth to galvanizing a labor movement, grapes have been involved in much of human history — including, of course, the history of alcohol. The wine we drink today is essentially the same beverage enjoyed by the ancient Persians, Romans, Greeks and Egyptians.
Perhaps the best-known grape species is Vitis vinifera, native to Eurasia, which is standard in winemaking and encompasses cultivars such as chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, as well as many of the table grapes available in U.S. grocery stores. But other species (and hybrids) are also eaten fresh or made into wines, preserves or raisins. The North American species Vitis labrusca is the source of “slip-skin” grapes like Concord and Catawba. Muscadine wine is made from Vitis rotundifolia, native to the southern U.S.
Fun facts about grapes:
- The earliest evidence of winemaking with grapes can be seen in 8,000-year-old clay vessels unearthed in the Republic of Georgia in 2017.
- In the 19th century, grape varieties from the U.S. saved the vineyards of Europe. After an aphid-like insect, phylloxera, decimated European vineyards, growers figured out that grafting European grape varieties onto phylloxera-resistant North American root stock could prevent further destruction.
What to look for when buying grapes
Grapes come in many colors, from dusky red to deep purple to bright green. Look for fresh grapes with no brown spots, mold or significant numbers of shriveled grapes on the cluster.
Sustainability of grapes
Genetic diversity has decreased in recent years. As grapes have become a global commodity, certain cultivars have begun to dominate, in some cases replacing varieties bred for specific geographic conditions, such as low rainfall.
Raisin production also has some negative environmental implications. Most golden raisins are exposed to sulfur dioxide — which is a factor in acid rain and is commonly released during volcanic eruptions — to maintain their light green-yellow color. Sulfur dioxide may cause breathing difficulty for people with asthma. (The brown color of most raisins comes from the natural caramelization that occurs during sun- or oven-drying.)
Pesticides
Large-scale grape growing, especially in the U.S. and Australia, can be very water-intensive, and pesticides, especially fungicides, are widely used. In fact, grapes rank eighth on the Environmental Working Group’s 2023 Dirty Dozen list of fruits and vegetables most contaminated with pesticides.
Labor issues
Grape growing and harvesting is a very labor-intensive process. Famously, the 1965 Delano Grape Strike saw Filipino and Mexican laborers join together to form the United Farm Workers of America, whose protest in the fields went on to ignite a hugely successful consumer boycott.
In 2008, terrible labor conditions for migrant workers in California came to the forefront again after a 17-year-old girl, laboring in a vineyard for hours, died of heat exposure. More recently, wine country in California has experienced labor shortages due to heightened restrictions on immigration.
Geography
The “birthplace of wine” title remains hotly contested, but a recent genetic study shows that wine grapes were first domesticated in the Caucasus around 11,000 years ago.
Fueled in part by a growing love of wine, China’s grape production has recently surged past former leaders Italy, France and the U.S. California leads grape-growing in the States and is also a world leader for raisin production, in some years rivaling raisin powerhouse Turkey.
Seasonality
In the U.S., most grapes are harvested in the late summer and early fall. The grapes you see at grocery stores in winter often come from Chile or elsewhere in Latin America.
Eating grapes
Storing
Grapes should be as kept dry as possible, as moisture accelerates decomposition. Fresh grapes will keep from one to two weeks in the refrigerator.
Cooking
In addition to adding pop to caponata or pilaf, raisins are a pantry staple for baking. To keep them from sticking together in your oatmeal raisin cookies or sinking to the bottom of your Irish soda bread batter, toss them in a little all-purpose flour before gently folding them in.
Fresh grapes can also make a sophisticated addition to dishes both savory and sweet. Try inventive pastries like fresh grape pie or grape-lavender tart. Concord grapes are especially versatile in everything from focaccia with rosemary to sorbetto. Another classic preparation with fresh grapes: chicken salad. Both raisins and fresh grapes pair well with cheese.
It’s not just the fruit that’s delicious — grape leaves are also edible, most famously as dolmas, the Middle Eastern and Greek dish in which they’re stuffed with rice and meat.
Preserving
Of course, the most famous way to preserve grapes is to make wine (or the various spirits derived from them, such as grappa or brandy). Making wine at home requires time and equipment — and the results are usually disappointing — but this article outlines the process if you’re feeling inspired.
On the non-alcoholic side, grapes, especially Concords and other North American varieties, make excellent jams and jellies. You can also make your own raisins.
Nutrition
Grapes are a moderate source of Vitamin K, but not much else. However, the skins, especially of red grapes, are high in antioxidant phytochemicals.
Top photo by kkeekkii02/Twenty20.